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Posted by ganesh at 11:44 AM

Monday, December 22, 2008

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Simple Electronic Lock Project

Posted by ganesh at 11:28 AM






A kit for this project is available from RSH Electronics.
Download PDF version of this page
There are six (or more) push switches. To 'unlock' you must press all the correct ones at the same time, but not press any of the cancel switches. Pressing just one cancel switch will prevent the circuit unlocking. When the circuit unlocks it actually just turns on an LED for about one second, but it is intended to be adapted to turn on a relay which could be used to switch on another circuit.
Please Note: This circuit just turns on an LED for about one second when the correct switches are pressed. It does not actually lock or unlock anything!
This project uses a 555 monostable circuit.
Parts Required
resistors: 470, 100k ×2, 1M
capacitors: 0.1µF, 1µF 16V radial
red LED
555 timer IC
8-pin DIL socket for IC
on/off switch
push-switch ×6 (or more)
battery clip for 9V PP3
stripboard 12 rows × 25 holes

12V to 120V Inverter

Posted by ganesh at 11:26 AM

Have you ever wanted to run a TV, stereo or other appliance while on the road or camping? Well, this inverter should solve that problem. It takes 12 VDC and steps it up to 120 VAC. The wattage depends on which tansistors you use for Q1 and Q2, as well as how "big" a transformer you use for T1. The inverter can be constructed to supply anywhere from 1 to 1000 (1 KW) watts.
Important: If you have any questions or problems with the circuit, see the forum topic linked to in the Notes section. It will answer all your questions and provide links to many other (and better) inverter circuits.


Q1 and Q2, as well as T1, determine how much wattage the inverter can supply. With Q1,Q2=2N3055 and T1= 15 A, the inverter can supply about 300 watts. Larger transformers and more powerful transistors can be substituted for T1, Q1 and Q2 for more power.
The easiest and least expensive way to get a large T1 is to re-wind an old microwave transformer. These transformers are rated at about 1KW and are perfect. Go to a local TV repair shop and dig through the dumpster until you get the largest microwave you can find. The bigger the microwave the bigger transformer. Remove the transformer, being careful not to touch the large high voltage capacitor that might still be charged. If you want, you can test the transformer, but they are usually still good. Now, remove the old 2000 V secondary, being careful not to damage the primary. Leave the primary in tact. Now, wind on 12 turns of wire, twist a loop (center tap), and wind on 12 more turns. The guage of the wire will depend on how much current you plan to have the transformer supply. Enamel covered magnet wire works great for this. Now secure the windings with tape. Thats all there is to it. Remember to use high current transistors for Q1 and Q2. The 2N3055's in the parts list can only handle 15 amps each.
Remember, when operating at high wattages, this circuit draws huge amounts of current. Don't let your battery go dead :-).
Since this project produces 120 VAC, you must include a fuse and build the project in a case.
You must use tantalum capacitors for C1 and C2. Regular electrolytics will overheat and explode. And yes, 68uF is the correct value. There are no substitutions.
This circuit can be tricky to get going. Differences in transformers, transistors, parts substitutions or anything else not on this page may cause it to not function.
If you want to make 220/240 VAC instead of 120 VAC, you need a transformer with a 220/240 primary (used as the secondary in this circuit as the transformer is backwards) instead of the 120V unit specified here. The rest of the circuit stays the same. But it takes twice the current at 12V to produce 240V as it does 120V.
Check out this forum topic to answer many of the most commonly asked questions about this circuit: 12 - 120V Inverter Again. It covers the most common problems encountered and has some helpful suggestions.
Related Circuits



Part
Total Qty.
Description
Substitutions
C1, C2
2
68 uf, 25 V Tantalum Capacitor
R1, R2
2
10 Ohm, 5 Watt Resistor
R3, R4
2
180 Ohm, 1 Watt Resistor
D1, D2
2
HEP 154 Silicon Diode
Q1, Q2
2
2N3055 NPN Transistor (see "Notes")
T1
1
24V, Center Tapped Transformer (see "Notes")
MISC
1
Wire, Case, Receptical (For Output)

Automatic Room Lights

Posted by ganesh at 11:14 AM


An ordinary automatic room power control circuit has only one light sensor. So when a person enters the room it gets one pulse and the lights come ‘on.’ When the person goes out it gets another pulse and the lights go ‘off.’ But what happens when two persons enter the room, one after the other? It gets two pulses and the lights remain in ‘off’ state. The circuit described here overcomes the above-mentioned problem. It has a small memory which enables it to automatically switch ‘on’ and switch ‘off’ the lights in a desired fashion. The circuit uses two LDRs which are placed one after another (separated by a distance of say half a metre) so that they may separately sense a person going into the room or coming out of the room. Outputs of the two LDR sensors, after processing, are used in conjunction with a bicolour LED in such a fashion that when a person gets into the room it emits green light and when a person goes out of the room it emits red light, and vice versa. These outputs are simultaneously applied to two counters. One of the counters will count as +1, +2, +3 etc when persons are getting into the room and the other will count as -1, -2, -3 etc when persons are getting out of the room. These counters make use of Johnson decade counter CD4017 ICs. The next stage comprises two logic ICs which can combine the outputs of the two counters and determine if there is any person still left in the room or not. Since in the circuit LDRs have been used, care should be taken to protect them from ambient light. If desired, one may use readily available IR sensor modules to replace the LDRs. The sensors are installed in such a way that when a person enters or leaves the room, he intercepts the light falling on them sequentially—one after the other. When a person enters the room, first he would obstruct the light falling on LDR1, followed by that falling on LDR2. When a person leaves the room it will be the other way round. In the normal case light keeps falling on both the LDRs, and as such their resistance is low (about 5 kilo-ohms). As a result, pin 2 of both timers (IC1 and IC2), which have been configured as monostable flip-flops, are held near the supply voltage (+9V). When the light falling on the LDRs is obstructed, their resistance becomes very high and pin 2 voltages drop to near ground potential, thereby triggering the flip-flops. Capacitors across pin 2 and ground have been added to avoid false triggering due to electrical noise. When a person enters the room, LDR1 is triggered first and it results in triggering of monostable IC1. The short output pulse immediately charges up capacitor C5, forward biasing transistor pair T1-T2. But at this instant the collectors of transistors T1 and T2 are in high impedance state as IC2 pin 3 is at low potential and diode D4 is not conducting. But when the same person passes LDR2, IC2 monostable flip-flop is triggered. Its pin 3 goes high and this potential is coupled to transistor pair T1-T2 via diode D4. As a result transistor pair T1-T2 conducts because capacitor C5 retains the charge for some time as its discharge time is controlled by resistor R5 (and R7 to an extent). Thus green LED portion of bi-colour LED is lit momentarily. The same output is also coupled to IC3 for which it acts as a clock. With entry of each person IC3 output (high state) keeps advancing. At this stage transistor pair T3-T4 cannot conduct because output pin 3 of IC1 is no longer positive as its output pulse duration is quite short and hence transistor collectors are in high impedance state. When persons leave the room, LDR2 is triggered first followed by LDR1. Since the bottom half portion of circuit is identical to top half, this time with the departure of each person red portion of bi-colour LED is lit momentarily and output of IC4 advances in the same fashion as in case of IC3. The outputs of IC3 and those of IC4 (after inversion by inverter gates N1 through N4) are ANDed by AND gates (A1 through A4) are then wire ORed (using diodes D5 through D8). The net effect is that when persons are entering, the output of at least one of the AND gates is high, causing transistor T5 to conduct and energise relay RL1. The bulb connected to the supply via N/O contact of relay RL1 also lights up. When persons are leaving the room, and till all the persons who entered the room have left, the wired OR output continues to remain high, i.e. the bulb continues to remains ‘on,’ until all persons who entered the room have left. The maximum number of persons that this circuit can handle is limited to four since on receipt of fifth clock pulse the counters are reset. The capacity of the circuit can be easily extended for up to nine persons by removing the connection of pin 1 from reset pin (15) and utilising Q1 to Q9 outputs of CD4017 counters. Additional inverters, AND gates and diodes will, however, be required

5 band graphic equalizer using a single IC/chip

Posted by ganesh at 11:09 AM


This circuit uses a single chip, IC BA3812L for realizing a 5 band graphic equalizer for use in hi-fi audio systems.The BA3812L is a five-point graphic equalizer that has all the required functions integrated onto one IC. The IC is comprised of the five tone control circuits and input and output buffer amplifiers. The BA3812L features low distortion, low noise, and wide dynamic range, and is an ideal choice for Hi-Fi stereo applica-tions. It also has a wide operating voltage range (3.5V to 16V), which means that it can be adapted for use with most types of stereo equipment.
The five center frequencies are independently set using external capacitors, and as the output stage buffer amplifier and tone control section are independent circuits, fine control over a part of the frequency bandwidth is possible, By using two BA3812Ls, it is possible to construct a 10-point graphic equalizer. The amount of boost and cut can be set by external components.
The recommended power supply is 8V, but the circuit should work for a supply of 9V also. The maximum voltage limit is 16V.
The circuit given in the diagram operates around the five frequency bands:
100Hz
300Hz
1kHz
3kHz
10kHz

Digital Volume Control

Posted by ganesh at 11:06 AM


This circuit could be used for replacing your manual volume control in a stereo amplifier. In this circuit, push-to-on switch S1 controls the forward (volume increase) operation of both channels while a similar switch S2 controls reverse (volume decrease) operation of both channels.
A readily available IC from Dallas semiconductor, DS1669 is used here.
FEATURES:
Replaces mechanical variable resistors
Electronic interface provided for digital as well as manual control
Wide differential input voltage range between 4.5 and 8 volts
Wiper position is maintained in the absence of power
Low-cost alternative to mechanical controls
Applications include volume, tone, contrast,brightness, and dimmer control
The circuit is extremely simple and compact requiring very few external components.
The power supply can vary from 4.5V to 8V.

Discrete component motor direction controller

Posted by ganesh at 11:04 AM


This circuit can control a small DC motor, like the one in a tape recorder. When both the points A & B are "HIGH" Q1 and Q2 are in saturation. Hence the bases of Q3 to Q6 are grounded. Hence Q3,Q5 are OFF and Q4,Q6 are ON . The voltages at both the motor terminals is the same and hence the motor is OFF. Similarly when both A and B are "LOW" the motor is OFF.When A is HIGH and B is LOW, Q1 saturates ,Q2 is OFF. The bases of Q3 and Q4 are grounded and that of Q4 and Q5 are HIGH. Hence Q4 and Q5 conduct making the right terminal of the motor more positive than the left and the motor is ON. When A is LOW and B is HIGH ,the left terminal of the motor is more positive than the right and the motor rotates in the reverse direction. I could have used only the SL/SK100s ,but the ones I used had a very low hFE ~70 and they would enter the active region for 3V(2.9V was what I got from the computer for a HIGH),so I had to use the BC148s . You can ditch the BC148 if you have a SL/SK100 with a decent value of hFE ( like 150).The diodes protect the transistors from surge produced due to the sudden reversal of the motor. The approx. cost of the circuit without the motor is around Rs.40.Note: You can change the supply voltage depending on the motor, only thing is that it should be a 2 or 3V more than the rated motor voltage( upto a max. of 35V).

555 Timing for a stepper motor

Posted by ganesh at 11:03 AM


In the circuit a 555 drives a UCN 5804 stepper motor chip. My problem is with the speed switch set to slow the motor is driven too slow, and with the switch set to fast the motor is driven too fast.
I have changed the pot to 1M but the slowest speed (with the switch set to fast) is the fastest speed I require. At the slowest speed I would like to pulse the motor every 1-2 seconds.
I understand that the capacitor and resistors adjust the timing, but I dont understand the relationship between them.
Could somebody help me with this?

Ashampoo_Photo_Optimizer_3.02_www.softarchive.net_2

Posted by ganesh at 10:46 AM

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viralnuniyil thirukkural

Posted by ganesh at 10:09 AM

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